Sarajevo
About Sarajevo
Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, is a city where East meets West in the most literal sense. Ottoman mosques, Austro-Hungarian palaces, and socialist-era apartment blocks stand side by side, creating a unique cultural tapestry. The city sits in a valley surrounded by the Dinaric Alps, giving it a dramatic mountain backdrop.
Known for its resilience, warmth, and incredible food scene, Sarajevo is one of Europe's most underrated capitals. The old bazaar (Baščaršija) feels like stepping into Istanbul, while the western parts of the city have a distinctly Central European character.
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Quick Tips
- Currency: Convertible Mark (BAM). Cards are accepted at most restaurants and shops, but carry cash for small purchases, taxis, and market stalls.
- Transport: Trams run along the main east-west axis and are the easiest way to get around. Buy tickets at kiosks — they cost about 1.80 BAM (~€0.90).
- Tipping: Round up the bill or leave 10%. Locals usually just round up to the nearest mark.
- Coffee culture: Try Bosnian coffee (bosanska kafa) — it's served in a džezva with sugar cubes and lokum. Sip slowly and enjoy the ritual. It costs about 2–3 BAM (~€1–1.50).
- Walking: The old town and city center are very walkable. Wear comfortable shoes — some streets are cobblestoned and hilly.
Interesting Places to Visit
Baščaršija (Old Bazaar)
Sarajevo's Ottoman-era old town and cultural heart. Wander through narrow lanes filled with coppersmiths, carpet sellers, and cafés. Don't miss the Sebilj fountain in the central square.
Latin Bridge (Latinska ćuprija)
The historic Ottoman bridge where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated in 1914, triggering World War I. A small museum nearby tells the story. One of the most significant historical sites in Europe.
Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque
The largest and most important mosque in Bosnia, built in 1531. A masterpiece of Ottoman architecture with a beautiful courtyard. Visitors are welcome outside prayer times — dress modestly.
Tunnel of Hope (Tunel spasa)
A tunnel built under the airport runway during the 1992–1996 siege, the only link to the outside world. Now a museum that powerfully tells the story of Sarajevo's wartime resilience.
Vrelo Bosne (Spring of the River Bosna)
A stunning natural spring park at the foot of Mount Igman. Crystal-clear water, swans, and tree-lined avenues make it a perfect escape from the city. Take the horse-drawn carriage from the entrance.
Trebević Mountain & Olympic Bobsled Track
Take the cable car up Trebević for panoramic views of the city. Walk along the abandoned 1984 Winter Olympics bobsled track, now covered in graffiti — a haunting and beautiful sight.
Vijećnica (City Hall / National Library)
A stunning pseudo-Moorish building on the Miljacka river. Originally the city hall, then the national library (destroyed during the siege), it has been beautifully restored. The interior is breathtaking.
When to Visit
Sarajevo has a continental climate with warm summers and cold, snowy winters. Each season has its own appeal:
🌸 Spring (March – May)
Great time to visit. Mild weather (8–20°C), blooming parks, and fewer tourists. The city comes alive with outdoor cafés reopening along the Miljacka river.
- Comfortable walking temperatures
- Cherry blossoms in parks and hillsides
- Affordable accommodation
☀️ Summer (June – August)
Warm and sunny (20–32°C). The busiest tourist season but still far less crowded than Western European capitals. Perfect for day trips to the surrounding mountains.
- Sarajevo Film Festival (August)
- Long warm evenings at outdoor restaurants
- Hiking on Bjelašnica and Igman mountains
🍂 Autumn (September – November)
Beautiful fall colors on the surrounding mountains. Cooling temperatures (5–18°C) and thinning crowds. September is still warm and pleasant for sightseeing.
- MESS International Theatre Festival (October)
- Stunning foliage in the valley
- Cozy ćevabdžinica season begins
❄️ Winter (December – February)
Cold and snowy (−5 to 3°C), but atmospheric. Sarajevo hosted the 1984 Winter Olympics — nearby ski resorts are affordable and uncrowded. The city under snow is magical.
- Skiing at Jahorina and Bjelašnica
- Holiday markets in Baščaršija
- Warm Bosnian coffee and burek culture
Where to Eat (Affordable & Good)
Sarajevo is a food paradise with some of the lowest prices in Europe. Ćevapi (grilled minced meat) is the iconic dish — but there's so much more to discover:
Ćevabdžinica Željo$
The most famous ćevapi spot in Sarajevo, right in Baščaršija. Locals argue fiercely about whether Željo or Željo 2 is better. A full portion of ćevapi in somun bread with onions costs about 7–9 BAM (~€3.50–4.50).
Petica Ferhatović$
Legendary burek shop near Baščaršija. Flaky phyllo pastry filled with meat, cheese, or spinach, served with yogurt. A massive portion costs about 4–6 BAM (~€2–3). Open very early — perfect for breakfast.
Dveri$ – $$
Charming restaurant in a traditional Bosnian house. Serves excellent Bosnian home cooking — try the klepe (Bosnian dumplings) or the Bosnian pot (bosanski lonac). Main dishes 10–18 BAM (~€5–9).
Karuzo$ – $$
Popular with locals for generous portions of grilled meats and traditional dishes. The mixed grill platter is legendary. Relaxed atmosphere and very friendly service. Mains around 12–20 BAM (~€6–10).
Barhana$$ – $$$
Upscale Bosnian cuisine in a beautifully restored Ottoman house. The tasting menus showcase the best of local gastronomy. A splurge by Sarajevo standards but still affordable — mains 20–35 BAM (~€10–18).
Aščinica Asdž$
Traditional aščinica (ready-food canteen) serving hearty Bosnian stews and slow-cooked dishes. Point at what looks good — everything is delicious. A full meal for about 6–8 BAM (~€3–4).
Klopa Bistro$$
Modern Bosnian bistro offering creative twists on traditional recipes. Excellent wine list with local Herzegovinian wines. Main dishes around 15–25 BAM (~€7.50–12.50). Reservations recommended.