Karlovy Vary

Czech Republic

About Karlovy Vary

Karlovy Vary (Carlsbad) is the largest and most elegant spa city in the Czech Republic, nestled in a forested river valley in western Bohemia. Legend has it that Emperor Charles IV discovered the hot springs here in 1370 while hunting deer. Since then, the city has attracted visitors seeking healing thermal waters — from Peter the Great and Beethoven to Goethe and Kafka.

Today, Karlovy Vary is renowned for its 13 main hot springs (the hottest, Vřídlo, erupts at 73°C), its colorful Belle Époque architecture lining the Teplá River, and the prestigious Karlovy Vary International Film Festival held every July. The city is also famous for Becherovka herbal liqueur, Moser crystal glass, and its iconic spa wafers (lázeňské oplatky).

Useful links:

Quick Tips

Currency: Czech Koruna (CZK). Cards accepted in hotels and most restaurants. Carry cash for spa wafer vendors, small cafés, and the porcelain cup sellers.
Transport: The city center is compact and best explored on foot along the river promenade. From Prague, take the RegioJet or Student Agency bus (about 2 hours) — faster and more comfortable than the train.
Tipping: Round up or leave 10% in restaurants. Spa therapists also appreciate a small tip.
Spa cup: Buy a traditional porcelain spa drinking cup (lázeňský pohárek) early on — you'll use it at every spring along the colonnades. They make great souvenirs too.
Film Festival: If visiting during the KVIFF in July, book accommodation months ahead. The city fills up completely, but the atmosphere is electric and many screenings are open to the public.

Interesting Places to Visit

Hot Spring Colonnade (Vřídelní kolonáda)

The centerpiece of Karlovy Vary — a modern colonnade housing the Vřídlo geyser, which shoots water up to 12 meters high at 73°C. Buy a traditional porcelain spa cup and sip the mineral water from the various springs along the promenade. Each spring has a different temperature and mineral composition.

Mill Colonnade (Mlýnská kolonáda)

A stunning Neo-Renaissance colonnade designed by Josef Zítek (who also designed Prague's National Theatre). Built between 1871 and 1881, it shelters five hot springs and features 124 Corinthian columns. The most photographed landmark in the city and a UNESCO-listed treasure.

Diana Lookout Tower (Rozhledna Diana)

Take the funicular railway from the Grand Hotel Pupp up through the forest to this lookout tower offering spectacular panoramic views of the entire spa valley. The funicular ride itself is charming. There's also a butterfly house and mini-zoo at the top.

Church of St. Mary Magdalene (Kostel sv. Máří Magdalény)

A magnificent Baroque church designed by Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer in the 1730s. Its twin-towered facade dominates the spa center. The crypt beneath features a Gothic chapel with fascinating medieval remains. One of the finest Baroque churches in Bohemia.

Jan Becher Museum (Becherovka Museum)

Discover the history of Becherovka, the famous herbal bitters created in Karlovy Vary in 1807. The museum tour covers the original production facilities and the secret recipe story. Ends with a tasting session. Becherovka is sometimes called the "13th spring" of Karlovy Vary.

Moser Glass Museum & Factory

Moser has been producing luxury crystal glass in Karlovy Vary since 1857, serving royal courts across Europe. Tour the factory to watch master glassblowers at work, then visit the museum showcasing 160+ years of exquisite craftsmanship. The factory shop offers beautiful pieces at factory prices.

Grandhotel Pupp

An iconic Baroque hotel operating since 1701. Even if you don't stay here, walk through its grand halls and have coffee in the café. It served as the Casino Royale hotel in the James Bond film. The annual Film Festival red carpet events take place here.

When to Visit

Karlovy Vary is a year-round destination thanks to its thermal springs, but the experience changes with the seasons:

🌸 Spring (March – May)

Lovely and uncrowded. Temperatures rise (8–18°C), the forested hills around the valley turn green, and the colonnades are pleasant for leisurely strolls without summer crowds.

Spa season begins in earnest — book treatments more easily
Blooming gardens along the Teplá River promenade
Easter weekend events and special concerts

☀️ Summer (June – August)

Peak season (18–27°C) with the most visitors and events. July is dominated by the International Film Festival, when the city transforms into a glamorous hub of cinema and celebrity.

Karlovy Vary International Film Festival (early July)
Outdoor concerts in the colonnades
Hiking trails in the surrounding forests at their best

🍂 Autumn (September – November)

Gorgeous fall foliage in the valley (5–16°C), fewer visitors, and a peaceful atmosphere. The surrounding Slavkov Forest offers beautiful autumn hikes. September is still warm enough for comfortable exploring.

Spectacular autumn colors in the Teplá valley
Dvorak Autumn music festival
Quieter spa experiences and better hotel rates

❄️ Winter (December – February)

Cold (−4 to 3°C) but enchanting. Steam rising from the hot springs in the frosty air creates a magical atmosphere. Christmas decorations transform the colonnades. A perfect time for spa treatments and warming up with Becherovka.

Atmospheric Christmas markets along the colonnades
Thermal spa treatments are especially rewarding in winter
Lower prices on accommodation and spa packages

Where to Eat (Affordable & Good)

Karlovy Vary dining ranges from grand hotel restaurants to cozy local spots. Here are affordable places with genuine quality:

Hospoda U Švejka$

A traditional Czech pub named after the famous literary character. Hearty portions of goulash, roast pork with dumplings, and excellent draft Pilsner. Unpretentious and welcoming. Mains around 140–220 CZK (~€5.50–9).

Restaurace Promenáda$ – $$

A well-regarded restaurant with both Czech and international dishes in the heart of the spa district. Known for their svíčková and trout. Pleasant terrace dining in summer. Mains 180–320 CZK (~€7–13).

Tandoor$ – $$

One of the best Indian restaurants in western Bohemia, a welcome change from heavy Czech food after a few days. Excellent curries, fresh naan, and generous portions. Popular with locals and spa visitors alike. Mains 170–280 CZK (~€7–11).

Kus Pizzy$

A simple, popular spot for quality pizza by the slice. Perfect for a quick, affordable lunch between sightseeing. Fresh ingredients and crispy dough. Slices from 50–80 CZK (~€2–3).

Restaurace U Tomáše$

A locals' favorite tucked away from the main promenade. Classic Czech pub food — fried cheese, pork schnitzel, potato soup — at prices that haven't caught up with the tourist area. Mains under 180 CZK (~€7).

Café Pupp$$

For a splurge, have coffee and cake at the legendary Grandhotel Pupp. The Viennese-style café serves excellent pastries, strudel, and sachertorte. Worth it for the atmosphere alone. Coffee and cake around 200–300 CZK (~€8–12).

Oplatky from street vendors$

Don't leave without trying lázeňské oplatky — thin, crispy spa wafers filled with sugar, chocolate, hazelnut, or vanilla. Sold warm from stands all over the colonnade area. A Karlovy Vary tradition since the 18th century. Around 30–60 CZK (~€1.20–2.40).