Cēsis
About Cēsis
Cēsis is one of the oldest and most charming towns in Latvia, with a history stretching back over 800 years. Nestled in the heart of the Gauja National Park, this small town of about 15,000 people boasts a remarkably well-preserved medieval old town, a magnificent castle complex, and a thriving arts and craft beer scene that belies its modest size.
Once the seat of the Livonian Order, Cēsis retains a palpable sense of history in its cobblestoned streets and castle ruins. Today it draws visitors with its blend of heritage, nature, and a surprisingly hip cultural vibe that has earned it a reputation as Latvia's creative small-town gem.
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Quick Tips
- Currency: Euro (EUR). Cards work at most places, but bring cash for the market and small craft shops.
- Transport: Trains from Riga run regularly (about 2 hours, ~€5). The old town is compact and easily walkable. A car is useful for exploring the surrounding Gauja valley.
- Tipping: 10% at restaurants is standard. Smaller tips are fine at cafés.
- Craft beer:Cēsis is home to one of Latvia's oldest breweries. Visit the Cēsu Alus brewery shop and try local craft brews at bars around town.
- Candle tour: Explore the medieval castle ruins by candlelight — a unique experience available year-round. Book at the castle ticket office.
Interesting Places to Visit
Cēsis Medieval Castle (Cēsu viduslaiku pils)
One of the most impressive medieval castle ruins in the Baltics, dating to 1209. Explore the towers, dungeons, and courtyards by candlelight — a lantern is provided at the entrance. The adjacent New Castle (18th century) houses an excellent history museum.
Castle Park (Pils parks)
A beautiful landscaped park surrounding the castle complex with centuries-old trees, a pond, and winding paths. Lovely in every season — blooming in spring, shady in summer, golden in autumn, and snow-blanketed in winter.
St. John's Church (Sv. Jāņa baznīca)
A striking 13th-century church with a tall tower offering panoramic views of the old town and surrounding countryside. One of the oldest churches in Latvia with remarkable Gothic architecture.
Gauja National Park — Cēsis Section
The Cēsis area offers some of the best trails in Gauja National Park. Walk along sandstone outcrops at Ērgļu klintis (Eagle Cliffs) or paddle the Gauja River through forested valleys. Nature at its finest.
Cēsis Old Town
Charming cobblestone streets with well-preserved medieval and Art Nouveau buildings. Rīgas iela and Lenču iela are the main streets lined with shops, galleries, and cafés. The town square hosts a market on weekends.
Āraišu Lake Fortress (Āraišu ezerpils)
A reconstructed 9th-century lake dwelling archaeological site just outside Cēsis. Wooden buildings on a platform over a lake recreate ancient Latvian life. Unique in the Baltics and fascinating for history enthusiasts.
Zvārtes iezis (Zvārte Rock)
A dramatic 12-meter-high sandstone cliff on the Amata River, about 20 km from Cēsis. One of Latvia's most photographed natural landmarks. A short hike through the forest leads to this stunning formation.
When to Visit
Cēsis is delightful year-round, with each season offering a different reason to visit:
🌸 Spring (March – May)
The castle park blooms with wildflowers (3–16°C). Rivers run high and the surrounding forests come alive. A peaceful time to explore without crowds.
- Cēsis Art Festival (May)
- Spring blossoms in Castle Park
- Canoeing on the swollen Gauja River
☀️ Summer (June – August)
Warm and green (17–24°C). The town is liveliest with festivals, outdoor concerts in the castle courtyard, and perfect conditions for hiking and cycling.
- Cēsis Castle Festival and open-air concerts
- Swimming at Lake Āraišu
- Midsummer (Jāņi) celebrations
🍂 Autumn (September – November)
Stunning fall colors in the Gauja valley (3–14°C). The forests surrounding Cēsis turn golden and red — perfect for hiking and photography. Cultural season begins.
- Gauja valley golden foliage
- Mushroom foraging in surrounding forests
- Cozy castle candlelight tours
❄️ Winter (December – February)
Cold and snowy (−7 to −1°C). The castle ruins blanketed in snow are magical. Cross-country skiing trails nearby. The candlelight castle tour is especially atmospheric.
- Snow-covered castle ruins
- Cross-country skiing at Žagarkalns
- Christmas market in the old town
Where to Eat (Affordable & Good)
For a small town, Cēsis has a surprisingly vibrant food scene with several excellent restaurants and cafés:
Vinetas un Allas kārumlāde$
Beloved local bakery and sweet shop on the main street. Famous for handmade chocolates, pastries, and cakes. Their rye bread is exceptional. Perfect for a sweet treat. Items €2–5.
Cafe Popular$ – $$
Stylish café-restaurant in the heart of old town. Modern European dishes with Latvian touches. Great brunch menu and excellent coffee. Relaxed vibe popular with locals. Mains €7–12.
Spa Hotel Cēsis Restaurant$$
Upscale dining with local seasonal ingredients. Well-executed Latvian and Nordic cuisine. Beautiful setting overlooking the castle park. Worth it for a special meal. Mains €10–16.
Klēts$ – $$
Traditional Latvian restaurant in a wooden barn-style building. Hearty dishes — pork, potatoes, sauerkraut, and grey peas. Large portions and fair prices. Mains €6–11.
Kārļa Mūlers$ – $$
Cozy restaurant and brewery pub serving Cēsis craft beer alongside hearty pub food. Try the beer-battered fish or smoked ribs paired with a local ale. Mains €7–12.
Pienotava$
Simple dairy-bar concept serving fresh cottage cheese dishes, smoothies, and light meals using local dairy products. A unique Latvian concept — healthy and cheap. Dishes €3–6.