Daugavpils
About Daugavpils
Daugavpils is Latvia's second-largest city, located in the southeastern Latgale region on the banks of the Daugava River. It is the most multicultural city in Latvia, with a rich mix of Latvian, Russian, Polish, and Belarusian heritage reflected in its architecture, cuisine, and daily life. The city is the birthplace of the legendary abstract expressionist painter Mark Rothko.
The star attraction is the massive Daugavpils Fortress — one of the last intact 19th-century military fortifications in Europe. The surrounding Latgale lake district offers pristine nature, making Daugavpils a gateway to Latvia's most unspoiled landscapes.
Useful links:
Quick Tips
- Currency: Euro (EUR). Cards accepted at most places, but carry some cash for smaller establishments and markets.
- Transport: Trains from Riga (3–3.5 hours, ~€7–10). Buses are also available. The city center is walkable; local buses connect to the fortress and outskirts.
- Tipping: 10% at restaurants. Not widely expected in casual spots.
- Language: Russian is widely spoken alongside Latvian — more so than in other Latvian cities. English is understood in tourist areas and hotels.
- Latgale cuisine: Try regional specialties like Latgale šmakovka (homemade spirit), baked potato dishes, and stuffed peppers — distinct from western Latvian cooking.
Interesting Places to Visit
Daugavpils Fortress (Daugavpils cietoksnis)
A massive 19th-century military fortress — one of the last intact Napoleonic-era fortifications in Europe. The complex covers 150 hectares with walls, gates, barracks, and a moat. The Mark Rothko Art Centre is located within the fortress walls.
Mark Rothko Art Centre
Dedicated to the abstract expressionist painter born in Daugavpils as Marcus Rothkowitz. Houses original Rothko works alongside contemporary art exhibitions. A must-visit for art lovers — the only museum outside the US with original Rothko paintings.
Church Hill (Baznīckalns)
A unique spot where four houses of worship from different faiths stand within a few hundred meters: a Catholic church, Orthodox cathedral, Lutheran church, and the former synagogue-turned-house of prayer. A powerful symbol of the city's multiculturalism.
Unity Square (Vienības laukums)
The renovated central square of Daugavpils with a striking fountain and surrounding 19th-century architecture. The adjacent pedestrian Rīgas iela is lined with shops, cafés, and Art Nouveau buildings.
Daugavpils Regional and Art Museum
An excellent regional museum covering the history and culture of Latgale from ancient times to the present. Strong collections of folk art, ceramics, and ethnographic exhibits. The building itself is a fine example of 19th-century architecture.
Latgale Lake District
The area around Daugavpils is known as the "Land of Blue Lakes" with hundreds of glacial lakes. Lake Lielais Stropu, just 5 km from the center, has beaches and recreation areas. Lake Rāzna and Lake Lubāns offer pristine nature and excellent birdwatching.
Shot Factory Tower (Skrošu tornis)
A rare 19th-century lead shot manufacturing tower — one of only a handful remaining in Europe. Recently restored and opened to visitors with panoramic views from the top.
When to Visit
Daugavpils has a continental climate with cold winters and warm summers. Each season has its character:
🌸 Spring (March – May)
Slow to warm up (2–16°C) but the Daugava River ice break-up in March is dramatic. Parks bloom by May and the fortress grounds are beautiful for walks.
- Daugava ice break-up spectacle
- Fortress grounds in bloom
- Quiet museums without crowds
☀️ Summer (June – August)
Warm and pleasant (18–25°C). The best time for outdoor activities, lake swimming, and exploring the fortress complex. Long sunny days and cultural events.
- Daugavpils City Festival
- Swimming in Stropu and Latgale lakes
- Open-air events at the fortress
🍂 Autumn (September – November)
Golden colors around the lakes (2–13°C). A contemplative season — perfect for museum visits and slow exploration of the fortress. The Rothko Centre is at its most peaceful.
- Autumn foliage at Latgale lakes
- Cultural season at museums and galleries
- Mushroom and berry picking
❄️ Winter (December – February)
Cold and snowy (−8 to −2°C) — Daugavpils is one of the coldest cities in Latvia. The frozen fortress moat and snow-covered walls create a striking landscape. Warm up with Latgale cuisine.
- Snow-covered fortress walks
- Ice fishing on frozen lakes
- Warm Latgale comfort food
Where to Eat (Affordable & Good)
Daugavpils has an affordable and diverse food scene reflecting its multicultural character:
Gubernators$ – $$
Upscale restaurant in the Hotel Latgola with panoramic city views. Excellent Latvian and European cuisine. Their Latgale-inspired dishes are a highlight. Mains €7–14.
Arsenāls$ – $$
Located within the fortress complex, this restaurant serves well-prepared Latvian and international dishes in a unique historical setting. Great for lunch during a fortress visit. Mains €6–12.
Pica Lulū$
Popular local pizza spot with generous toppings and very low prices. Good salads and pasta too. Nothing fancy, but reliable and wallet-friendly. Pizzas €4–8.
Vita$
Cozy café-restaurant on Rīgas iela serving homestyle cooking. Daily lunch specials with soup and main for under €5. Traditional Latgale dishes alongside Russian-influenced comfort food.
Artilērijas pagrabi$ – $$
Atmospheric cellar restaurant in the fortress with stone walls and vaulted ceilings. Grilled meats, hearty soups, and local beer. The fortress setting makes the meal memorable. Mains €7–12.
Čili Pica$
Reliable Latvian pizza chain with a branch in Daugavpils. Family friendly with large portions of pizza, pasta, and salads at budget prices. Pizzas €5–9.
Meža pīle$$
"Wild Duck" — a countryside restaurant near Lake Stropu with Latgale specialties. Excellent game dishes, mushroom soup, and potato bakes. Beautiful lake setting. Mains €8–14.