Three Cities
About the Three Cities
The Three Cities — Birgu (Vittoriosa), Senglea (Isla), and Cospicua (Bormla) — are the original harbour towns across the Grand Harbour from Valletta. These fortified cities were the Knights of St. John's first home in Malta and the site of the legendary Great Siege of 1565. They are older, grittier, and more authentic than Valletta, with centuries of maritime history in their narrow streets.
While often overlooked by tourists rushing to Valletta, the Three Cities offer some of Malta's most genuine experiences. Birgu in particular has emerged as a destination in its own right, with a beautifully restored waterfront, excellent museums, and atmospheric wine bars. A water taxi from Valletta takes just minutes and delivers you to a completely different world.
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Quick Tips
- Currency: Euro (EUR). Some wine bars and smaller establishments prefer cash. There are fewer ATMs than in Valletta or Sliema.
- Transport: Take the dgħajsa (traditional water taxi) from Valletta's waterfront — it's cheap (€2), scenic, and authentic. Alternatively, bus 2 or 4 from Valletta. The Barrakka Lift in Valletta connects to the harbour level.
- Tipping: Round up or leave 5–10%. Locals appreciate it as these aren't major tourist spots.
- Birgu by Night: Visit on a Birgu by Candlelight evening (held annually in October) when the entire city is lit only by candles. Even on regular evenings, Birgu's streets are beautifully atmospheric after dark.
- Route: Start at Birgu waterfront, walk through to Fort St. Angelo, then cross to Senglea's Gardjola Gardens for the view. Cospicua is best seen walking through its impressive fortification gates.
Interesting Places to Visit
Fort St. Angelo (Birgu)
A massive fortification at the tip of Birgu, the Knights' original headquarters and the command centre during the Great Siege of 1565. Recently restored and open to visitors with excellent audioguide. The rooftop views of Valletta and the Grand Harbour are breathtaking.
Inquisitor's Palace (Birgu)
One of only three surviving Inquisitor's palaces in the world. This fascinating museum in Birgu explores the Roman Inquisition in Malta. See the courtroom, prison cells, and richly decorated private quarters. A unique and slightly chilling experience.
Malta Maritime Museum (Birgu)
Housed in the old Naval Bakery on Birgu's waterfront, this museum covers Malta's 7,000-year maritime history. Models of traditional boats, naval artefacts, and the story of Malta's strategic importance in the Mediterranean. Fascinating for history lovers.
Gardjola Gardens (Senglea)
Small but spectacular gardens at the tip of Senglea with one of Malta's most iconic views — the Grand Harbour, Valletta, and Fort St. Angelo in a single panorama. The stone vedette (watchtower) with carved eyes and ears is a symbol of vigilance.
Birgu Waterfront (Vittoriosa Marina)
A beautifully restored harbour-side promenade with luxury yachts moored alongside historic buildings. Wine bars, cafés, and restaurants line the waterfront. Best enjoyed in the evening when the lights of Valletta reflect across the harbour.
Cottonera Lines & Gates (Cospicua)
Massive fortification walls built in the 1670s to protect all three cities. The monumental gates — especially Notre Dame Gate and Zabbar Gate — are among Malta's most impressive military architecture. Walk sections of the walls for commanding views.
St. Lawrence Church (Birgu)
The Knights' first conventual church in Malta, predating St. John's in Valletta. A beautiful Baroque interior with paintings attributed to Mattia Preti. The festa of St. Lawrence in August is one of Malta's most passionate celebrations.
When to Visit
The Three Cities are wonderful year-round and blissfully uncrowded compared to Valletta, even in peak season:
🌸 Spring (March – May)
Excellent time to visit. Warm (15–24°C) and perfect for walking the fortifications and waterfronts. The harbour is at its most beautiful with clear skies and good light.
- Perfect walking weather
- Clear views across the Grand Harbour
- Outdoor waterfront dining
☀️ Summer (June – August)
Hot (28–35°C) but the narrow streets provide shade. The waterfront comes alive in the evenings. Birgu Festa (St. Lawrence) in August is a spectacular celebration with fireworks over the harbour.
- Birgu Festa (10 August)
- Evening waterfront atmosphere
- Water taxi rides at sunset
🍂 Autumn (September – November)
Warm (20–28°C) and the best season for the Three Cities. Birgu by Candlelight event in October is unmissable. Fewer tourists and pleasant temperatures for exploration.
- Birgu by Candlelight (October)
- Fewer tourists than summer
- Comfortable sightseeing weather
❄️ Winter (December – February)
Mild (10–16°C) with occasional rain. The quietest time — you might have Fort St. Angelo almost to yourself. The waterfront wine bars are cozy and welcoming. Dramatic harbour views in winter light.
- Empty streets and quiet museums
- Cozy wine bar season
- Dramatic winter harbour views
Where to Eat (Affordable & Good)
The Three Cities have a growing food scene, especially along Birgu's waterfront. Expect authentic Maltese cooking at honest prices:
Tal-Petut (Birgu)$$ – $$$
A tiny, intimate restaurant in a 400-year-old building serving a set menu of traditional Maltese dishes. No printed menu — the chef cooks what's fresh and seasonal. Book well ahead — only about 20 seats. A truly unique dining experience.
Two and a Half Lemon (Birgu)$ – $$
Charming café-bistro on Birgu's main square. Great for brunch, light lunches, and excellent coffee. Maltese platters, fresh salads, and homemade cakes. Lovely outdoor seating with a view of St. Lawrence Church.
Del Borgo (Birgu)$ – $$
Wine bar and bistro on the Birgu waterfront with tables overlooking the marina. Good selection of Maltese wines, cheese platters, and Mediterranean small plates. Perfect for a sunset aperitivo with Valletta views.
Osteria Zi Teresa (Birgu)$ – $$
Casual Italian-Maltese trattoria near the waterfront. Honest pasta, grilled fish, and meat dishes at fair prices. Friendly family service. A reliable everyday restaurant that locals frequent.
Café du Brazil (Birgu)$
Quirky café on Birgu's main street known for its coffee and vintage décor. Great breakfast pastizzi and light snacks. A favourite with locals for a quick coffee break. Incredibly affordable.
La Brasserie (Cospicua)$ – $$
A neighbourhood restaurant in Cospicua serving hearty Maltese and Italian dishes. Fresh pasta, local rabbit, and seafood at very reasonable prices. Off the tourist trail and authentically local.
Vedette (Senglea)$ – $$
Named after Senglea's famous watchtower, this waterfront restaurant serves fresh Mediterranean cuisine with harbour views. Good fish dishes and pasta. A pleasant stop after visiting Gardjola Gardens.