Faro
About Faro
Faro is the capital of the Algarve and the gateway to southern Portugal's stunning coastline. Often overlooked by tourists rushing to beach resorts, the city itself is a hidden gem with a charming walled old town (Cidade Velha), a beautiful marina, and easy access to the Ria Formosa Natural Park — a sprawling system of barrier islands and lagoons teeming with birdlife.
With its relaxed atmosphere, affordable dining, and proximity to some of Europe's finest beaches, Faro deserves more than just a quick stopover.
Useful links:
Quick Tips
- Currency: Euro (EUR). Cards accepted in most places. Cash handy for beach bars and small cafés.
- Transport: The old town and marina are walkable. For beaches, take ferries from the Ria Formosa jetty. Rent a car to explore the wider Algarve coast.
- Tipping: Round up or leave 5–10%. Not obligatory.
- Beaches: Faro's best beaches (Praia de Faro, Ilha Deserta) are on barrier islands — take a short ferry ride to reach unspoiled sand.
- Cataplana: The Algarve's signature dish — a copper-pot seafood stew with clams, prawns, and chorizo. Order it for two and share.
Interesting Places to Visit
Ria Formosa Natural Park
A stunning 60-km lagoon system with barrier islands, salt marshes, and rich birdlife including flamingos. Take a boat tour or ferry to Ilha Deserta — one of the most pristine beaches in Portugal.
Cidade Velha (Old Town)
Enter through the medieval Arco da Vila and explore cobblestone streets lined with orange trees, the 13th-century Faro Cathedral, and peaceful squares. The old town is compact and beautifully preserved.
Capela dos Ossos (Bone Chapel)
A haunting chapel built from the bones of over 1,000 monks, located in the Igreja do Carmo. Smaller than Évora's but equally striking. A sobering and fascinating visit.
Faro Cathedral (Sé de Faro)
A 13th-century cathedral blending Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles. Climb the bell tower for panoramic views over the old town, the Ria Formosa, and the sea.
Ilha Deserta (Barreta Island)
The southernmost point of mainland Portugal — a completely undeveloped barrier island with pristine white sand and crystal-clear water. Reachable by ferry. There's one eco-restaurant on the island.
Milreu Roman Ruins
Well-preserved Roman villa ruins just 10 minutes from Faro by car. Features mosaics depicting marine life, a temple converted to a church, and ancient baths. Quiet and rarely crowded.
Praia de Faro
Faro's main beach — a long stretch of golden sand on a narrow peninsula. Connected to the mainland by bridge. Beach bars, calm lagoon side for families, and open Atlantic for surfers.
When to Visit
Faro and the Algarve enjoy over 300 days of sunshine per year with a Mediterranean climate:
🌸 Spring (March – May)
Ideal season. Warm (16–22°C), wildflowers blooming along the coast, and very few tourists. The Ria Formosa is alive with migratory birds.
- Almond and wildflower blooms across the Algarve
- Best birdwatching season in Ria Formosa
- Beach season starts by late May
☀️ Summer (June – August)
Hot and dry (25–35°C). Peak beach season with long sunny days. Busy but not overwhelming in Faro itself — the resort towns get most of the tourists.
- Perfect beach weather every day
- Festival F in Faro (September overlap)
- Warm sea temperatures for swimming
🍂 Autumn (September – November)
Still warm (16–25°C) with pleasant sea temperatures. September feels like summer. October onwards is quieter with excellent value on accommodation.
- Sea still warm enough for swimming in September
- Fewer crowds, lower prices
- Great for hiking and cycling
❄️ Winter (December – February)
Mild (10–16°C) and mostly sunny. Some rainy days but far warmer than northern Europe. Perfect for cultural sightseeing and birdwatching.
- Mildest winter in mainland Portugal
- Flamingos wintering in Ria Formosa
- Cheapest flights and hotels
Where to Eat (Affordable & Good)
Faro offers some of the freshest and most affordable seafood in Portugal. Eat where the locals eat:
Adega Nova$ – $$
A local institution serving generous portions of grilled fish and Algarvian specialties since the 1960s. The cataplana de marisco is outstanding. Simple décor, excellent value.
Restaurante Ria Formosa$ – $$
Overlooking the marina with views of the lagoon. Fresh fish and shellfish straight from the Ria Formosa. Try the clams à Bulhão Pato or the grilled sea bass.
Tertúlia Algarvia$ – $$
Located inside the old town walls, this restaurant serves creative Algarvian cuisine in a charming courtyard. Local wines, regional cheeses, and excellent fig desserts.
Gardy's$
A friendly, family-run spot known for the best bifanas in Faro. Simple, cheap, and packed with locals at lunch. Cash preferred.
O Estaminé (Ilha Deserta)$$
The only restaurant on Ilha Deserta — and what a setting. Fresh grilled fish and seafood on a deserted island beach. Worth the ferry ride for the experience alone. Book in summer.
Faz Gostos$$
Creative Portuguese cuisine in the old town. Beautiful azulejo-tiled interior. The tasting menu with wine pairing is excellent value. Romantic atmosphere for dinner.
A Venda$
A tiny petiscos spot near the market. Daily changing blackboard menu with fresh, seasonal dishes. Great local wines by the glass. Authentic and unpretentious.