Ankara
About Ankara
Ankara, the capital of Turkey since 1923, is often overshadowed by Istanbul but has its own compelling story to tell. Atatürk chose this central Anatolian city as the seat of the new Turkish Republic, and his mausoleum — Anıtkabir — remains the most visited monument in the country. The city blends modern governmental architecture with an ancient citadel quarter dating back to the Hittites.
Ankara is home to Turkey's best museum — the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations — which houses artifacts spanning 10,000 years. The city's university population gives it a youthful energy, and its restaurant scene, centered around Kızılay and the old town, is excellent and very affordable.
Useful links:
Quick Tips
- Currency: Turkish Lira (TRY). Cards accepted widely. ATMs on every corner.
- Transport: Ankara has a metro, Ankaray light rail, and extensive bus network. Get an AnkaraKart for all transit. The city is sprawling — use transit between sights.
- Tipping: 10% at restaurants. Round up for taxis.
- Angora goats: Ankara's original name, Angora, gave its name to the famous Angora goat (mohair), Angora rabbit, and Angora cat. You can see the fluffy cats at the Ankara Castle.
- Try Ankara tava: The city's signature dish — lamb cubes baked with rice, tomatoes, and peppers in a clay pot. Found at traditional restaurants around the citadel area.
Interesting Places to Visit
Anıtkabir (Atatürk's Mausoleum)
The monumental mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, founder of modern Turkey. A striking blend of ancient and modern architecture set in manicured grounds. The museum inside chronicles the Republic's founding. Free entry. Allow 2–3 hours.
Museum of Anatolian Civilizations
Turkey's finest museum, housed in a restored 15th-century covered bazaar. Artifacts span from the Paleolithic through Hittite, Phrygian, Urartian, and Roman eras. The Hittite sun disc and mother goddess figurines are world-famous.
Ankara Castle (Ankara Kalesi)
The ancient hilltop citadel with fortifications dating to the Galatians, Romans, and Byzantines. The inner castle offers panoramic views over the city. The surrounding old quarter has restored Ottoman houses, antique shops, and atmospheric cafés.
Hacı Bayram Mosque & Temple of Augustus
A unique site where a 15th-century Ottoman mosque stands adjacent to the ruins of the Roman Temple of Augustus. The temple walls bear the famous Monumentum Ancyranum — Augustus's account of his deeds. A fascinating blend of civilizations.
Kocatepe Mosque
The largest mosque in Ankara, completed in 1987 in a neo-classical Ottoman style. The interior is lavishly decorated with Kütahya tiles, stained glass, and massive chandeliers. The basement has a shopping mall — a uniquely Turkish touch.
Roman Baths of Ankara
Ruins of a 3rd-century Roman bath complex covering a large area in the city center. The foundations, hypocaust heating system, and column stumps give a clear picture of Roman bathing culture. Open- air and free to visit.
Beypazarı (Day Trip)
A beautifully preserved Ottoman town 100 km west of Ankara. Famous for its restored wooden houses, silver jewelry, carrots (yes, carrots), and dried fruit. Great for a weekend escape with excellent traditional food.
When to Visit
Ankara has a continental climate with hot, dry summers and cold, snowy winters:
🌸 Spring (April – May)
Best season to visit. Mild (12–22°C), parks and gardens bloom, and the citadel area is at its most pleasant. Comfortable sightseeing weather.
- Cherry and apricot blossoms
- National Sovereignty Day celebrations (April 23)
- Perfect museum weather
☀️ Summer (June – August)
Hot and dry (25–35°C). The city empties as many residents head to the coast. Less crowded sights, but midday heat can be intense. Evenings are pleasant in outdoor cafés.
- Fewer crowds at attractions
- Cool evenings at rooftop bars
- Ankara Music Festival (June)
🍂 Autumn (September – November)
Pleasant (10–22°C), golden fall colors in the parks, and cultural events resume after summer. University students return, bringing energy to the café and bar scene.
- Republic Day celebrations (October 29)
- Golden autumn colors at Anıtkabir grounds
- Cooler days ideal for walking
❄️ Winter (December – February)
Cold (−3 to 5°C) with snow. Museums and indoor attractions are perfect for cold days. Anıtkabir in the snow is hauntingly beautiful. Cheapest accommodation.
- Snow-covered citadel views
- Cozy kebab restaurants and tea houses
- Skiing at nearby Elmadağ resort
Where to Eat (Affordable & Good)
Ankara's food scene is centered on hearty Central Anatolian cuisine — grilled meats, stews, and the city's own specialties:
Trilye Restaurant$$ – $$$
Ankara's most acclaimed restaurant specializing in Aegean-style seafood in an elegant setting. The meze spread and grilled fish are outstanding. Reservations recommended. Mains 400–700 TRY (~€12–21).
Balıkçıköy$ – $$
Popular fish restaurant chain with reliably fresh seafood at reasonable prices. The fried calamari and grilled levrek (sea bass) are favorites. Mains 250–450 TRY (~€7–13).
Hacı Arif Bey$ – $$
Institution in Ulus district serving traditional Turkish kebabs and stews since 1955. The Ankara tava and lamb tandir are must- tries. Generous portions at honest prices. Mains 180–350 TRY (~€5–10).
Çengelhan Brasserie$$ – $$$
Housed in a beautifully restored 16th-century caravanserai next to the citadel. Modern Turkish cuisine in a stunning historic setting. The courtyard dining is magical. Mains 300–550 TRY (~€9–16).
Uludağ Kebapçısı$
Legendary İskender kebab restaurant in Kızılay. Perfectly spiced döner over bread with yogurt and tomato sauce. A hearty meal for under 200 TRY (~€6). Always packed — a good sign.
Mangal Keyfi$
Beloved ocakbaşı (grill house) with charcoal-grilled kebabs and fresh salads. The mixed grill platter is excellent value. Lively atmosphere with locals. Mains 150–280 TRY (~€5–8).
Kale Washington Restaurant$ – $$
Located inside the old citadel with a terrace offering panoramic city views. Traditional Turkish dishes including mantı and güveç (clay pot stew). The sunset views are worth the visit alone. Mains 200–400 TRY (~€6–12).