Izmir
About Izmir
Izmir, Turkey's third-largest city, stretches along a stunning Aegean bay and is often called the country's most progressive and laid-back metropolis. Ancient Smyrna — one of the oldest cities in the Mediterranean — lives on through its historic bazaar quarter, while the modern waterfront Kordon promenade buzzes with cafés, restaurants, and a distinctly relaxed vibe.
Often overlooked by tourists rushing to Ephesus or Bodrum, Izmir rewards those who linger. The Kemeraltı Bazaar, the hilltop Kadifekale fortress, and the Agora of Smyrna are wonderful. The city is also the gateway to Çeşme's beaches and the Aegean wine trail.
Useful links:
Quick Tips
- Currency: Turkish Lira (TRY). Cards accepted everywhere in the modern center. Carry cash for the Kemeraltı Bazaar.
- Transport: İzmir has an excellent metro, bus, and ferry system. Get an İzmirim Kart for all transit. Ferries across the bay are fast and scenic. IZBAN commuter trains reach Selçuk.
- Tipping: 10% at restaurants. Round up for taxis and small services.
- Boyoz for breakfast: İzmir's signature pastry — a flaky, chewy börek unique to the city. Best eaten warm from a street bakery with a glass of tea. Try it at a local fırın (bakery).
- Çeşme day trip: The beach resort town of Çeşme is just 80 km west. Famous for crystal-clear water, windsurfing at Alaçatı, and excellent fish restaurants.
Interesting Places to Visit
Kemeraltı Bazaar
One of the oldest and largest open-air markets in Turkey, dating to the 17th century. A labyrinth of shops selling everything from spices and dried figs to leather and jewelry. The surrounding streets have beautiful old mosques and synagogues.
Agora of Smyrna
Well-preserved Roman marketplace rebuilt after an earthquake in 178 AD. Underground galleries and Corinthian columns reveal Smyrna's former grandeur. Located in the heart of the bazaar quarter — easy to combine with market shopping.
Kordon Waterfront
İzmir's beloved seaside promenade stretching along the bay. Perfect for sunset walks, cycling, or sitting at a waterfront café with çay. The views across to Karşıyaka and the mountains are beautiful. Joins Alsancak's lively bar scene.
Kadifekale (Velvet Castle)
The ancient hilltop fortress above İzmir, originally built by Alexander the Great's general Lysimachus. The remaining walls and towers offer sweeping panoramic views over the entire bay. Free entry.
Konak Square & Clock Tower
İzmir's central square featuring the iconic 1901 Ottoman clock tower — the city's symbol. Adjacent is the ornate Konak Yalı Mosque with its beautiful tile work. The starting point for exploring the bazaar and waterfront.
Alsancak Quarter
İzmir's trendiest neighborhood with beautifully restored 19th- century houses, independent shops, artisan coffee roasters, and a buzzing bar scene along 1453. Sokak (Street). Best experienced in the evening.
Çeşme & Alaçatı (Day Trip)
A beach resort town 80 km west of İzmir. Çeşme has a Genoese castle and thermal baths, while neighboring Alaçatı is famous for its stone houses, boutique hotels, windsurfing, and some of the best fish restaurants on the Aegean.
When to Visit
Izmir has a classic Mediterranean climate — hot, dry summers and mild, rainy winters:
🌸 Spring (March – May)
Mild and pleasant (14–25°C). Great for exploring the city and day trips. Wildflowers bloom in the surrounding hills. The bay sparkles under clear skies.
- Perfect sightseeing weather
- Herb and artichoke festival season
- Beach season begins in late May
☀️ Summer (June – August)
Hot and dry (28–38°C). Prime beach season. Çeşme and Alaçatı are at their busiest. İzmir International Fair in late August. Air-conditioned bazaar shopping is a welcome refuge.
- Beach weather at Çeşme and Alaçatı
- İzmir International Fair (August–September)
- Lively nightlife along the Kordon
🍂 Autumn (September – November)
Best overall season. Warm (18–28°C in September), sea still swimmable, festivals, and fewer crowds. Grape harvest season with local wine events.
- Grape and fig harvest
- Warm sea through October
- Great prices on accommodation
❄️ Winter (December – February)
Mild (6–13°C) but rainy. Not beach weather, but the bazaar, museums, and restaurants are enjoyable year-round. Cheapest time to visit.
- Mandarins and citrus season
- Cozy meyhane (tavern) evenings
- Low prices and zero crowds
Where to Eat (Affordable & Good)
İzmir's food scene is outstanding — heavily influenced by Aegean cuisine with olive oil, herbs, and fresh seafood:
Deniz Restaurant$$ – $$$
Iconic Kordon waterfront fish restaurant with bay views. Fresh meze spread followed by the catch of the day. A classic İzmir dining experience. Fish mains 350–600 TRY (~€10–18).
Ayşe Teyze'nin Yeri$
Legendary home-cooking restaurant serving daily-changing Aegean dishes. The olive oil-based vegetable stews and stuffed grape leaves are superb. A full lunch under 150 TRY (~€5).
Kordon Boyoz & Börek$
The place for İzmir's famous boyoz pastry. Fresh from the oven, flaky and perfect with a glass of tea. Also serves excellent börek and simit. Breakfast for under 80 TRY (~€2).
Sakız Restaurant$ – $$
Charming Alsancak restaurant specializing in Aegean and Cretan cuisine. Amazing meze selection with wild herbs, and excellent grilled fish. Mains 200–400 TRY (~€6–12).
Topçu Kebap$
İzmir's most famous İskender kebab restaurant, serving since 1961. Thinly sliced döner over bread with tomato sauce and yogurt, drenched in butter. A filling feast for under 200 TRY (~€6).
Reyhan Lokantası$
Popular lokanta near Kemeraltı offering a huge buffet of ready- prepared home-cooked dishes. Point at what you want — everything is delicious. Lunch under 120 TRY (~€4).
Veli Usta Balık$ – $$
No-frills fish restaurant in the Kordon area loved by locals. Ultra-fresh catch grilled simply with lemon and olive oil. The fried calamari is exceptional. Fish mains 200–400 TRY (~€6–12).